Preventing Foundation Issues
- inspectorbellonzi
- Dec 3
- 3 min read

Most foundation issues (cracks, settling, heaving, bowing walls) are caused by water and soil movement. If you control moisture around and under your home, you’ll prevent 90% of future foundation headaches.
1. Control Surface Water (Keep it away from the house)
Maintain positive drainage: Final grade should slope away from the foundation at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet (5–6% slope).
Extend downspouts and gutters at least 5–10 feet away from the house (longer in clay soils). Have gutters Installed if you don't have them.
Use splash blocks or buried drain pipe if you can’t get 10 ft.
Clean gutters and downspouts twice a year so water doesn’t overflow next to the foundation.
2. Manage Subsurface Water
Install French drains or surface swales in chronically wet areas.
Consider a sump pump in the crawlspace or basement if you regularly get water.
In expansive clay areas (Texas, Colorado, Oklahoma, etc.), a root barrier + perimeter French drain is often money very well spent.
3. Keep Soil Moisture Consistent Around the Foundation
In dry seasons, water the perimeter of the house slowly and deeply (soaker hoses or drip irrigation on a timer).
Goal: keep the soil moisture within ~5% of normal year-round levels.
Water 2–3 feet out from the foundation edge, not right up against it.
In wet seasons, make sure water is being carried away (see #1).
4. Trees and Large Shrubs
Plant large trees no closer than 1.5 × mature height from the foundation (e.g., a live oak that gets 50 ft wide should be at least 75 ft away).
Existing large trees closer than this? Install a root barrier and commit to the watering regimen above.
Remove dead or dying trees promptly — when roots decay, the soil shrinks and the slab can drop.
5. Proper Landscaping Practices
Never raise grade against the foundation without adding proper drainage and a waterproof barrier.
Don’t pile mulch or soil higher than the brick ledge or siding.
Flower beds next to the house should slope away and have edging to keep soil from washing toward the foundation.
6. Plumbing Leak Prevention & Detection
2nd most common cause of foundation movement after poor drainage.
Have a static leak test done every 3–5 years (plumber isolates the house and watches the meter).
Replace polybutylene or old galvanized pipes if you have them.
7. Regular Inspections (Do these yourself twice a year)
Look for new cracks in brick, sheetrock, or floors (>⅛" wide or rapidly growing).
Doors/windows sticking for sticking.
Gaps between baseboards and floor, or between brick and window/door frames.
Stairstep cracks in brick or bulging basement walls.
Any of these = call a structural engineer, not a foundation repair company first.
8. Regional Tips
Expansive clay soils (most of Texas, Oklahoma, Colorado, Missouri): Consistent moisture + deep watering in summer is critical.
Sandy soils (Florida, coastal areas): Focus on drainage and preventing erosion under the slab.
Frost-heave areas (northern states): Proper footing depth and insulation + drainage.
Quick “Foundation Health” Checklist You Can Do Today
Gutters clean and extended? □
Grade slopes away 6" in 10 ft? □
No tree roots under slab or large trees too close? □
Soaker hose or drip system around perimeter? □
No visible plumbing leaks or high water bill? □
Do the items above and your foundation will very likely outlast you. Ignore them and you’re rolling the dice on a $10k–$50k repair bill.
If you already see movement, get a third-party structural engineer (not a repair contractor) to diagnose before anyone sells you piers or mudjacking.



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