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Preventing Foundation Issues

  • inspectorbellonzi
  • Dec 3
  • 3 min read
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Most foundation issues (cracks, settling, heaving, bowing walls) are caused by water and soil movement. If you control moisture around and under your home, you’ll prevent 90% of future foundation headaches.

1. Control Surface Water (Keep it away from the house)

  • Maintain positive drainage: Final grade should slope away from the foundation at least 6 inches over the first 10 feet (5–6% slope).

  • Extend downspouts and gutters at least 5–10 feet away from the house (longer in clay soils). Have gutters Installed if you don't have them.

  • Use splash blocks or buried drain pipe if you can’t get 10 ft.

  • Clean gutters and downspouts twice a year so water doesn’t overflow next to the foundation.

2. Manage Subsurface Water

  • Install French drains or surface swales in chronically wet areas.

  • Consider a sump pump in the crawlspace or basement if you regularly get water.

  • In expansive clay areas (Texas, Colorado, Oklahoma, etc.), a root barrier + perimeter French drain is often money very well spent.

3. Keep Soil Moisture Consistent Around the Foundation

This is the #1 thing homeowners ignore and the #1 cause of slab and pier-and-beam movement.

  • In dry seasons, water the perimeter of the house slowly and deeply (soaker hoses or drip irrigation on a timer).

  • Goal: keep the soil moisture within ~5% of normal year-round levels.

  • Water 2–3 feet out from the foundation edge, not right up against it.

  • In wet seasons, make sure water is being carried away (see #1).

4. Trees and Large Shrubs

  • Plant large trees no closer than 1.5 × mature height from the foundation (e.g., a live oak that gets 50 ft wide should be at least 75 ft away).

  • Existing large trees closer than this? Install a root barrier and commit to the watering regimen above.

  • Remove dead or dying trees promptly — when roots decay, the soil shrinks and the slab can drop.

5. Proper Landscaping Practices

  • Never raise grade against the foundation without adding proper drainage and a waterproof barrier.

  • Don’t pile mulch or soil higher than the brick ledge or siding.

  • Flower beds next to the house should slope away and have edging to keep soil from washing toward the foundation.

6. Plumbing Leak Prevention & Detection

  • 2nd most common cause of foundation movement after poor drainage.

  • Have a static leak test done every 3–5 years (plumber isolates the house and watches the meter).

  • Replace polybutylene or old galvanized pipes if you have them.

  • Install a water-leak alarm under sinks, water heater, and in the attic.

7. Regular Inspections (Do these yourself twice a year)

  • Look for new cracks in brick, sheetrock, or floors (>⅛" wide or rapidly growing).

  • Doors/windows sticking for sticking.

  • Gaps between baseboards and floor, or between brick and window/door frames.

  • Stairstep cracks in brick or bulging basement walls.

  • Any of these = call a structural engineer, not a foundation repair company first.

8. Regional Tips

  • Expansive clay soils (most of Texas, Oklahoma, Colorado, Missouri): Consistent moisture + deep watering in summer is critical.

  • Sandy soils (Florida, coastal areas): Focus on drainage and preventing erosion under the slab.

  • Frost-heave areas (northern states): Proper footing depth and insulation + drainage.

Quick “Foundation Health” Checklist You Can Do Today

  • Gutters clean and extended? □

  • Grade slopes away 6" in 10 ft? □

  • No tree roots under slab or large trees too close? □

  • Soaker hose or drip system around perimeter? □

  • No visible plumbing leaks or high water bill? □

Do the items above and your foundation will very likely outlast you. Ignore them and you’re rolling the dice on a $10k–$50k repair bill.

If you already see movement, get a third-party structural engineer (not a repair contractor) to diagnose before anyone sells you piers or mudjacking.

 
 
 

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