The Ants Go Marching...

When doing home inspections, I see a number of places where insects can easily enter homes. Make sure you seal cracks and openings, especially where water pipes and other conduits penetrate walls, around the garage door and other exterior doors.. Note: don't close up weep holes or openings that are intended to remain open.

To eliminate ants in your home, you will need a combination of prevention, sanitation, and targeted treatment. The most successful approach targets the colony (especially the queen), not just the visible ants trailing around. Wiping out only the ones you see usually leads to them returning quickly.

1. Identify the Ants and Their Food Preference since different ants respond best to different baits:

Sweet-loving ants (tiny black/brown ones, often Argentine or odorous house ants) → sugar-based liquid baits like Terro work great.

Protein/grease-loving ants (slightly larger, may include carpenter ants or pavement ants) → use protein or oil-based baits (e.g., Advion gel or peanut butter + borax mix).

If possible, take a close-up photo of a few ants (on white paper for contrast) and compare online or note size/color/behavior. This helps choose the right bait. Contact the University extension or show it to a pest control specialist.

2. Eliminate Food Sources and Clean Thoroughly

Ants are in your home primarily for food and water. So wipe counters, floors, and cabinets with a 1:1 white vinegar + water solution or soapy water → destroys their scent trails.

Store all food (including pet food) in sealed containers.

Fix any leaky faucets or pipes (ants love moisture).

Take out trash daily and clean recyclables.

Sweep/vacuum crumbs daily, especially in kitchens.

3. Seal the Entry Points

Prevent more from coming in.

Caulk cracks around windows, doors, baseboards, pipes, and foundation.

Weatherstrip doors and add door sweeps.

Trim plants/branches touching the house (ants use them as bridges).

Check for gaps around utility lines.

4. Use Ant Baits (The Most Effective Method for Colony Elimination)

Baits are slow-acting on purpose → worker ants carry the poison back to the nest and feed the queen/others.

Top-recommended options:

Terro Liquid Ant Baits — Excellent for sweet-loving ants; place near trails but not directly on them.

Advion Ant Gel — Very effective (often called "professional-grade"); good for many species, including grease ants.

Raid Ant Gel or similar precision baits.

Place baits:

Along ant trails

Near entry points

In corners where you see activity

Don't disturb/kill ants near the bait — let them take it home.

Expect 3–14 days for major reduction (sometimes longer for large colonies). Replace baits as they get used up.

5. Natural / Non-Toxic Options (Good for Light Infestations or Pet/Kid Households)

Diatomaceous earth (food-grade) — Sprinkle along baseboards, windowsills, and entry points. It scratches their exoskeleton and dehydrates them. Reapply after cleaning.

Borax + sugar bait DIY: Mix 1 part borax, 3 parts sugar, enough warm water for syrup consistency. Soak cotton balls or place in jar lids near trails.

Peppermint oil, tea tree oil, or citrus oil — Mix 10–15 drops with water in a spray bottle; spray trails/entry points (strong smell repels but doesn't kill colony).

Boiling water down obvious outdoor nest holes (if safe and accessible).

5. Use an outside ant killer. There are lawn sprays and baits. Destroy the mounds especially near the house. Be careful when dealing with fire ants.

6. Call a Professional if you have:

Carpenter ants (large black/red, may damage wood)

Fire ants (aggressive, stinging)

Persistent infestation after 2–3 weeks of baiting

Suspected large colony in walls/foundation

Pros use stronger gels, perimeter treatments, and can identify the exact species quickly.